How the PJ8C is made
Flight-tested, advanced technology
Last Updated: February, 2009

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PJ8C Ceramic-coated pulsejet

How's it done?
A lot of folks have asked me just what's involved in building an engine like the PJ8C so here's a bit of a step-by-step description with pictures.

The body
The first task is to cut the various pieces of metal from which the pulsejet body is formed.

In the case of the PJ8C, there are four separate sections to the engine and they're all cut from 0.5mm stainless steel sheet.

Once cut to size and shape, these four sections are rolled to form the tubes and cones which make up the body. This rolling is performed using a set of slip-rolls with care being taken to ensure that the resulting parts are as round as possible.

weld seam weld seam Each piece is now cleaned to remove traces of metal scale and oil from the rollers then placed in the welding jigs. These jigs are essential to ensure the best quality welds and the minimum of distortion during the welding process. They also serve to stop the back-side of the weld from forming carbide intrusions into the pipes and cones.

The tubes and cones are TIG welded using a 1.6mm tungsten and an inert argon atmosphere. Welding stainless steel sheet this thin is very difficult as even the smallest mistake can result in hole or an ugly mess. I use a small overlap and fusion-welding techniques to get the lightest but strongest results. one of the many welding jigs

ready to weld the sections together Once the tubes and cones are welded down their seams, they're positioned (again using jigs) in careful alignment and welded together to form the body.

After welding, the body is pickled -- a process that uses a very corrisive mix of acids to remove the dark iron oxides formed near the weld area by the heat of the welding process.

Since pickling leaves the stainless steel with a matte finish, the bodies are then lightly polished to restore some lustre.

cutting the material The valve-plate
A slice of round 2024 aluminium is cut from stock and trued-up on the lathe. Trust me, this is not the kind of job you want to do by hand with your trusty hacksaw.

A hole is drilled in the center and it is bolted to a mandrel so that the rest of the machining operations can be performed.

drilling the valve-plate blank intake holes drilled After being turned to the correct thickness, the portion which sits inside the combustion chamber is turned down to a tight fit and a slight taper is turned onto the back edge so that it's easier to slide into the body.

The plate is now moved from the lathe to a rotary table on the mill where ten holes are drilled at 36 degree intervals. These are the inlet holes over which the reed valve sits.

milling the intake holes Once the drilling is complete, the shape of the round holes are modified by a milling operation which increases the valved area.

the finished valve-plate The plate is now fliped over and the front-face has a ring milled in it.

After being returned to the lathe, a small truncated cone is turned in the center of the plate on the front side. This mates with another cone to form the intake cone that directs the incoming air and fuel towards the holes in the valve-plate.

Several other holes are also drilled into the valveplate, including the four holes that be used to retain the plate in the body and the holes for the pressure-tap.

The intake cone
This cone sits in front of the valve-plate and does the job of directing the incoming air/fuel charge towards the holes in the valve-plate while also acting as a nut to retain the bolt which holds the entire valve-plate assembly together. It is turned from a small piece of 6061 rod. It is also drilled and tapped to accept the 8mm bolt.

spinning the pulsejet diffuser cone The intake venturi/diffuser
The intake venturi is formed from several components using several different techiniques.

The diffuser cone section is spun from a disk of aluminum. This creates an extremely rigid and light component. The spinning is done on my own purpose-built spinning lathe. tuned intake tube and forming tool

The tuned intake tube is made from aluminum tubing and carefully flared at the inlet end using a purpose-built flaring tool. It is then drilled to accept the atomizer jet then welded to the spun diffuser cone. Yes, the TIG welder comes in handy once again. More jigs are used to ensure accurate alignment and, believe it or not, welding this aluminium is actually easier than welding the very thin stainless from which the body is made. the finished intake assembly

A ring of thicker aluminum slips over the intake tube/cone and effectively clamps the flange on the diffuser against the front of the valveplate. It is drilled to take some cap-head screws.

The fuel atomizer jet is held in place using a single M4 nut.

This method of forming the intake venturi was chosen because it produces a part that is far lighter than results from turning the whole thing from a solid block of aluminum as was done for the prototype engine.

The pressure tap
This is made from a part which is machined up on the lathe and tapped for screwing into the valve-plate, and a short section of steel tubing.

The two parts are TIG welded together.

spinning the pulsejet valve retainer The valve retainer
This is spun from 0.5mm stainless steel to form a dished circle. After spinning it is polished to remove any sharp edges that could damage the valves.

Unlike the aluminum retainers used in some engines, the this stainless steel component will not melt, break or warp despite the high combustion temperatures and vibration inherent to the inside of a pulsejet engine. It is also much ligher than the equivalent aluminum part.

Finishing things off
Now the valve-plate is mounted in the body and the four holes which take the M4 bolts which hold the two parts together are drilled and tapped.

The 10mm hole is also drilled for the sparkplug.

ceramic coating A special ceramic coating is then applied to the inside of the combustion chamber and part of the tailpipe section using an in-house technique that has been refined over several months. This coating bonds to the surface of the stainless with a tenatious grip that even the heat and pressure of combustion won't affect. fuel jet

A custom-designed nut is also macined up and tapped to retain the sparkplug. The fuel atomizer jet is also turned and drilled from aluminum.

That's it!
So now all the pieces can be bolted together and the engine is ready to run.

As you can now see, although pulsejet engines are intrinsically very simple in design and construction, to build one to a reasonable standard of quality and consistency takes many different steps, the right equipment, plus a number of specially built jigs and tools.

It actually takes more than a full day to make each engine, which is why I only make small batches and only when time allows.

spinning the pulsejet diffuser cone Here are the valve-head/intake components including:

  • valve-plate (with pressure tap)
  • turned intake cone
  • tuned intake venturi with retainer ring
  • valve
  • spun stainless steel valve ratiner
  • retaining bolt and washer

sparkplug and machined retaining nut Sparkplug and machined retaining nut.

weleded pulsejet bodies Welded pulsjet bodies. The one on the right has been pickled to remove weld scale and the one the left has then been polished to restore lustre.

TIG welder The TIG welder used for much of the construction.

 
More Info on Donating Home | Project Diary | My Tools | Contact Me | Links | My Gas Turbine Project | The Afterburner
Turboshaft Engine | Jet-kart | Pulsejet-powered Kart | Kitsets | Troubleshooting pulsejets
Contact me Valveless Pulsejets | Ramjets Explained | 100lbs-thrust pulsejet | Turbo-turbine FAQ
Chrysler's Turbine-cars | How Pulsejets Work | Flying Platform | Metal Spinning | My Lockwood engine
Starting a pulsejet | Making Reed-valves Last | Pulsejet-powered speedboat | The PDE
Thrust Augmentors List of Sponsors | Master Site Index | The Pulsejet FAQ | DIY Cruise Missile
Copyright © 2001 - 2009 to Bruce Simpson